A Nifty Jean Hem
January 26, 2012 in Projects
Keep the manufactured edge of your jeans with this hem! You can hardly tell they’ve been hemmed! This works best with jeans that have smaller manufactured hems, but, can be done with larger hems, you may just have to figure the math differently. In this case, the hem is 5/8″. You also may not be able to implement this hem on anything that is too tapered. Use a jean needle, a presser foot with a button (if you have one), and navy or jean thread (or the color to best match your jeans)
1. Try your jeans on and have someone, preferably someone other than yourself, pin your jeans to the desired length.
2. Measure pinned hem; this is where you will cut.
3. Mark the length you just measured on the front and back of the leg.
4. It may seam odd to cut off right where you want your finished hem to lay, but, this is what you will do (shown below). Keep each cut piece with the correct jean leg; I like to pin one hem to the correct leg while I’m working with the other to make sure I keep them straight).
5. Measure the manufactured hem because your seam allowance will be this amount. Shown below, my hem is 5/8″.
6. Turn the piece that you just cut off inside out and mark what you just measured (in my case, 5/8″) above the manufactured hem (shown below).
7. Cut on your mark. This is now part of your seam allowance that you will sew back onto your jeans. It sounds weird, but it looks really great when finished!
8. Now we are ready to pin the hem to the jeans.
9. The picture below shows the hems placed “pretty” or right sides together on the correct leg with correct seams together (I say correct seams because more often than not your outer seam is top stitched with jean thread and your inner seam is just a normal seam). You may need to stretch just a bit.
10. My JEAN needle is in the center and I stitched as close to the manufactured hem as possible without stitching on it. If you have a machine foot that has the button on it, use that foot! Definitely use a jean needle, they’re trucks when sewing jeans!! I just use navy thread or jean thread (I like this jean thread for some jeans).
11. When you are sewing over the thick hem, your foot may look like this and or skip stitches…check out the next step!
12. Lift your foot up, let it flatten out, engage the button so that your foot will remain flat as it stitches over the bulk of the hem; it pops back out on its own. It works great!
14. Now, fold your hem out, iron if necessary.
15. Stitch close to the left side of the seam to flatten out the hem with navy thread or this jean thread, whatever will hide and blend the best! You may have to pull the right and left side slightly as you sew to keep it flat and from rolling over to the hem side.
16. I like to stitch up the side seam above the hem for about a half inch so that my seam allowance underneath doesn’t flip to the outside (in this step you are sewing on top but the underside seam allowance is facing up towards the top of the jeans).
The Finished Product
The Finished Product
Step 17: Wear them without stepping on them!! Let me know if anything is unclear!