Recently, my embroidery machine and I were at war. I would start to sew a design and the thread would break about 10 stitches into it. After several failed attempts and as my furstration mounted, I tried other options.

I changed my bobbin, sprayed canned air into the bobbin case area to clean it out, and changed my needle and thread spool. The thread still broke!

I slowed my machine speed to the lowest setting… the thread still broke!

I changed the design, hoop and stabilizer… the thread still broke!

I changed my fabric and the design density setting on my embroidery machine… the thread still broke!

At this point, I had exhausted all possibilities and lugged the machine into work. Surely our technical team here could figure out what was going on! The called me within an hour in regards to my issues… I was embarassed. I had totally forgotten that I changed my presser foot height when I used the pearl and piping foot earlier in the week. I never set the foot height back and it was causing my machine to break threads! Ugh!

What a relieft! But, lesson learned… before lugging the machine to be fixed, make sure your setting are back to default for the entire machine!

Even with the myriad of colors available today, it’s sometimes impossible to match your fabric with a thread. The Rule of Thumb in thread selection is to pick a shade darker than your fabric because threads sew in lighter than they look on the spool. This Rule of Thumb works every time!

Whenever I have to do more than one of anything, whether it’s decorating a bunch of cupcakes, monogramming several bags, or making Christmas stockings for my nieces and nephews, I’ve found it goes much faster if I do everything in an assembly line.
For example, if I’m making similar dresses for little girls, I would cut everything out at the same time, ruffle all the ruffles, iron on all the interfacing, and assemble them all at once–doing the same step for each dress before moving on.
The assembly line saves you time because you don’t have to move between steps each time, you only do each once.
You also only think about each step once. If something is confusing, you don’t have to figure it out each time!

I hate it when my embroidery doesn’t turn out the way I expected — am I not talking about my color choices. I’m talking about the unusual pull, puckers and just plain weirdness. Whey doesn’t mine look like their’s? Here are some tips to try when your embroidery design just doesn’t seem right:

• Rethread the machine, including reinserting the bobbin and removing and reattaching the embroidery unit

• Does the bobbin thread show on the right side? If so, use a lighter-weight bobbin thread

• Clean the lint from the bobbin area — a can of computer air spray works great for this

• Change the needle — make sure it is the right size and type, we recommend Klasse embroidery needles for most designs. And, make sure there is no adhesive residue on the needle

• Slow down the machine stitching speed — the faster it stitches, the more stress it puts on your fabric and embroidery

• Slightly loosen the upper tension

• Make sure the fabric and stabilizer are secure — you could also add a piece of wash away or hydro-melt stabilizer to the design

Once I find a pair of jeans that fit right, I do almost anything to never throw them out. Luckily, this mostly involves patching holes as they spring up. Here are some tips for better patches:

• When the hole is in an awkard place for something decorative or bright, I’ll use a scrap of fabric cut from the hem, facing, bottom of sleeves, or pocket interior so it will blend almost perfectly
• Reinforce high-wear areas (elbows, knees, etc.) with an inside patch
• Repair the hole/tear quickly, before it gets bigger
• Stabilize smaller holes from the inside, then cover the outside with decorative buttons or stitching

I have a tin of buttons that belonged to my great-grandmother. I’ve wanted to use them, but was unsure of the size of each. I don’t mind mixing, matching, and guessing, but I wanted to sort them by size, and didn’t know what size to label each group.

I found this chart for button sizing at www.karimeaway.com:

http://www.karimeaway.com/files/buttonsizingchartexpanded.pdf

I printed it at 100% and labeled the sizes according to the chart. Now if a pattern calls for a 9/16″ button, I’ll have a clearer idea which ones to use.

I love trying different feet for my sewing machine, it’s always an adventure and I learn a lot. My latest find is the Pearl & Piping Foot from Baby Lock.

I recently used this foot to attach a string of beads to a project I’ve been slowly working on. My confidence had me overly hiped about how easy this would be — I can do it in no time, this will only take a second! Little did I know…

After several needle breaks, jamming the machine (which causes an awful noise), and all of my patience, I finally finished. Here is what I learned:

• Reduce the pressure on the presser foot (you can do this in the settings for you machine, consult you manual for assitance)
• You made need to raise the presser foot, depending on the size of your beads/pearls/piping
• Use a zig-zag stitch that is slightly wider than your beads/pearls/piping
• When going around corners and making turns widen or lengthen your stitch
• Sew slowly, it isn’t a race
• Consider wearing safety eyewear, just in case you do break a needle (or in my case, three) — you don’t want it to fly back and hit you in the eye (or in my case, the cheek and nose)

Lace designs have always caught my attention. They’re great to use as accents, on linens, as gift tags, etc. But, sometimes stitching them out can be a bit tricky. And, always be sure to read the fine print to know for sure if the design is freestanding (doesn’t require fabric) or not.

When embroidering lace designs chose your thread based on the desired end result. Silk thread is great for softer fabrics, such as batiste. Polyester thread if the item will be laundered. Rayon thread will add sheen to the project. You may also want to use the same thread in the needle and bobbin to provide support for freestanding designs.

Use heat-removable or water soluble stabilizer and if the design is dense, use two layers to add more support.

Typically small needles work best for lace embroidery, so use the smallest needle possible for your choice of thread.

Don’t forget to check out the lace designs at Amazing Designs, they’re beautiful.

Anyone who sews knows the occasional frustration of finding the perfect pattern, but being unable to find the perfect fabric.

Fabric stores and quilt shops abound with wonderful fabrics from terrific designers in every color of the rainbow. Still, you can walk away from you search without finding what you’re looking for.

Sometimes it pays to think outside the box when it comes to fabric!
For instance, did you know that bed sheets could be used as yardage? Vintage sheets are my favorite because of their lovely floral, geometric, or striped designs, and are tightly woven so that the fabric usually doesn’t need much ironing, if any at all. The fabrics usually get softer with each wash and have little or no pilling when they’re well made.

Sheets can be found at all kinds of places. Department and big box stores usually carry several designs in different colors. When you find these on sale, you’ve probably spent less for “fabric” than you would have if you’d purchased it from a fabric store.

Don’t overlook places like thrift stores, yard sales, and estate sales for great sheets for sewing. I’ve found next-to-new king size sheets at thrift stores for as little as $1.00. These fabrics are great for all kinds of projects where you’d use a cotton fabric, but they’re also excellent for making a mock-up or muslin of a pattern to check for fit.

Sheets come in other fibers besides the standard 100% cotton or a Permanent Press blend. Flannel sheets can be used to make cozy shirts for cold weather, loungewear (I wouldn’t recommend them for sleepwear because they are not flame retardant.), baby blankets, or even stuffed animals or pillows for children.

Silk, satin, or satin-like sheets can also be very versatile and won’t break the bank if you buy them on sale. They make great linings for jackets or vests, slips, scarves, pillows, accessories such as an eye mask, or are even a great texture for a baby’s taggie blanket.

If you purchase a new set of sheets for a project, you may have more than one print to work with. Cut the elastic and seams off of the fitted sheet so it will also lay flat and will be easier to work with. If you don’t need the pillowcases for yardage, consider making pillowcase dresses for your favorite little girl.

For as versatile as they are, sheets aren’t the only “outside-the-box” source for fabric.

Find a full-skirted prom or bridesmaid’s dress and make a tree skirt for Christmas by measuring up the skirt to the measurement you’d like your tree skirt to be. Cut off the bodice after measuring. Add a casing with a drawstring, and you have a unique addition to your Christmas décor!

Your wedding dress can easily be made into a Christening gown for baby that can be passed down through generations and will have a sentimental connection because you wore it for your wedding. If you can’t stand the thought of doing this to your dress, you can also find dresses at thrift stores, consignment shops, or even online at places like eBay!
How about other fabrics such as leather or vinyl?
A vinyl tablecloth that’s available new for a few dollars can become a cushion for an outdoor chair, the backing for a baby’s bib, the lining for a changing pad, or a wet-sack to keep in your diaper bag for those unexpected messes you need to take home for the laundry.

The cost of new, authentic leather is shocking if you haven’t priced it before. A few weeks ago I found a brown (real!) leather jacket at a yard sale for $.25! Yes, just one quarter! I’m not sure what it’s going to become just yet, but it will be taken apart and used for a special project.

Keep an eye out for other items in your home or on sale that you can repurpose!
Those sheers you are taking down from your living room windows would make a terrific tutu or princess costume for an imaginative little girl.
Grandma’s quilt that has seen better days can be sectioned and made into pillows so that each member of the family can have a memento.
Men’s shirts can easily be made into doll clothes or dresses for little girls or ties for little boys. Do an online search for “girls dress from man’s shirt” or “free tie pattern” to find directions for projects like this.

Everyone who sews can easily combine frugality, recycling, and creativity. Don’t be afraid to look at any type of garment or textile for uses beyond what is “normal”!